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Newbie Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 8/3/2010 1:01:48 PM
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Hello everyone,
I am wondering if anybody could please post a picture or link to pictures or diagrams of the deck hardware and rigging. I restored a 1973 wooden Melges C-Scow, I am in the process of replacing the deck hardware, and cannot make sense of my rigging diagrams.. I knew I should have taken digital photos! I guess best would be pics of a woody from the 70's but even an older glass boat would do. My scow has hardware both on the topsides and on the centerboard cassettes.
Thank you very much beforehand for your help.
Chris
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Junior Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 8/11/2010 4:16:07 PM
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Hopefully the attachments worked for a couple of deck layout drawings I have.
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Newbie Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 8/3/2010 1:01:48 PM
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Hi - thanks for the reply. Since I can upload C-boat pics, here goes my grab-bag summary of new-found woody scow rigging and restoration wisdom. May it be useful to the enthusiast. Mine is a 1973 Melges who lived in Missouri before coming back home to IL..
Then..
And now..
About the rigging the Nike saying "Just Do It!" covers it.. once I started putting things in, old holes and openings, and common sense guided me... the layout diagrams above helped as well to confirm my decisions. The foredeck allows bilateral cunni and vang lines:
The boards have standard purchase lines thru-deck and swivel-cam out (gravity down, unsecured). A block to be attached to (unbuilt) hull below is not shown.
Center traveler is unrestricted with the usual vang-cunni-(?something else?) cleat fore, trav cleat aft, and backstay hardware nearby.
Rear traveler also standard, an intermediate block adds extra purchase.
FINALLY.. the hull painted (Interlux VC underwater epoxy, Smiths High Build Epoxy)
There is some other hardware that is left over but I am only interested in the main controls to learn to race this thing.
All the best -- CMR
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Newbie Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 8/3/2010 1:01:48 PM
Posts: 4,
Visits: 27
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Regarding the bumpiness of the hull, does anybody know how hard a good fairing job would be at this point? Or how expensive? Or who would do it professionally? (Do modern boatyards dealing with fiberglass work know how to do this?)
I used white cedar a little thicker than original, then fiberglass with WEST epoxy and a few layers of epoxy heavy primer and Teflon paint. The new planks have been sealed with Smith CPES and fitted with 3M-5200, so there should be some longevity there (20 years?).
These should be easy to remove or shape with a grider, but at this point I feel I want to wait a few years before taking things down.
Thank you very much beforehand for any ideas or advice,
-- Chris
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