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RE: Here is what I have learned

abarkow — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 11:33:20 GMT

Block to block... as tight as you can trim. Please read from Qs to blues to see the difference in the quantum and norths.

RE: Here is what I have learned

gmcbride — Wed, 02 Sep 2009 10:42:53 GMT

When you say "two blocked" do you mean block to block?

RE: Here is what I have learned

BR4 — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 12:29:57 GMT

Ed,

Depending on how new your sail is, your cunningham may be effected by shrinkage of your luff line. It is sewn in place at top and bottom. The threads can be cut at bottom and the line pulled into the sail, it may pull in 6"-9". A short section of line would need added at the bottom to stay in the mast groove and sewn in place.

RE: Here is what I have learned

Jack Ehlers — Thu, 07 May 2009 10:58:14 GMT

Edgar--You may have this already but just in case...

"Two-blocking" refers to the situation when two blocks in the same set-up meet, preventing any further trimming of the line. In this case the main sheet block attached to the boom and the traveller.

Think of a two-block set-up like a handy-billy. http://www.diy-wood-boat.com/Handy-Billy.html As you pull on the trim line the distance between the two blocks shortens. Ultimately you'll end up putting both blocks together. So, two-blocking is a max position.

Cheers!

RE: Here is what I have learned

edgar — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 21:07:41 GMT

Can you tell me what you are referring to a two blocking?

I noticed that my sails dont get sag in the uphaul downhaul even with the cunningham blown

do C-Scows usually not have wrinkles in light airs or am I doing something wrong

Thanks

RE: Here is what I have learned

abarkow — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 14:21:57 GMT

Jeff and I weight about 350 together and have used the heavy air sail in 6-10 breeze and liked it very much - flat water is the key. we suffered alittle downwind but the flatter sail - opened leech allows you to trim harder without stalling your sail. I have noticed that the Quantum heavy is alittle bigger than the 2007 North sails haircut sail. I know they are changing some things around - but that is yet to be seen. So in flat water - go with the heavy sail. I hope that helps.

Augie

RE: Here is what I have learned

cx21 — Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:47:33 GMT

Augie,

My crew and I tip the scales at 325 lbs, and have trouble finding a third who is of appropriate weight.

Consequently, we have trouble in anything over 10-12 kts.

We use all the controls appropriately, mast bent to 50", etc.

My question is, what do you think of us using our Harecut as our regular sail? Any advice on the set-up of the boat as to measurements, etc?

Thanks

RE: Here is what I have learned

Team Mud — Tue, 17 Jul 2007 10:51:47 GMT

Boat - The theory goes the newer the boat the more stiff it is. So when you hit a wave the boat doesn't absorb the impact and waste energy on it.

Mast - The new extrusion is stronger with greater tinsel strength. One of the goals was to create a mast with less chance of breaking, but it also created a tube with greater resiliency. So when you release the cunningham the mast stands back up quicker and thusly powers up faster. You're also allowed a greater range of sail shape because you push the upper limits of jackstay tension (at your own peril).

RE: Here is what I have learned

Ed — Mon, 16 Jul 2007 11:58:25 GMT

Is there a big difference or advantage with the new spars and boats vs. the old spars and boats?

RE: Here is what I have learned

Team Mud — Thu, 05 Jul 2007 17:38:42 GMT

Ed,

Take a tape measure from the deck up the mast. Make marks on your mast with a marker. If you have an old style mast you should probably range from 32" to 44". The older masts don't have the strength of the new extrusion.

Chris

RE: Here is what I have learned

Ed — Mon, 02 Jul 2007 14:38:12 GMT

How do you measure the Jackstays? From the deck at the base of the mast to what?

Anything special I should do with an old mast and sails?

Thanks!

Here is what I have learned

Team Wagon - Augie — Thu, 31 May 2007 13:25:32 GMT

Ok - so I am going to try this, maybe once a week, or everyother. int he past 8 years of sailing C scow, I have learned a lot about how to sail these boats. From speed to waves to sail trim, there is a lot that goes into a Successful C scow race. So this is my attempt to share what I have learned.

Todays topic - Mast setup. I have been approached by many people about how to set up the mast on the C boat. - Step one - step the mast.

Mast rake - the tuning guide says to be around 31 feet 10 to 11 inches. Honestly, I have not sailed in 3 years forward of 31' 9.5 inches. Light air - heavy air whatever... the boat feels better with the mast back a bit. So I set the mast to 31-9.5 and have the sidestay hand tight, so there is no sag.

Jack Stays - with just 2 (375lbs) sailing - we sail at 50 inches from the base of the mast. That is applying a small amount of pressure with one finger on each jack stay. I could probably get them to 58-60 if I pushed hard. when we add our third, I tighten them up to about 44 (one finger pressure).

Mainsheet cars - this is on e of those things that most people done move, but I move these more than anything. The general position of the cars would be the back car just over the back traveler and the 2nd car infront of that. Then i move the middle car very forward on the boom. The main sheet cars control the mast 'swivel' and thus controls the mast angle to the wind. I beleive you should have your cars pulling on the mast to create less rotation. Try this and see how it feels. It feels great in flat water. More rotation in chopper waters.

With this mast set up, you will find yourself getting close to 'two blocking' the mainsheet in 10 to 12 mph. in flat water, this can be very fast, and you will get a great sounds ''hummmmm'' from your mast and boat.

See what you think and happy C boating.

Augie